From Clarkson’s Favourite Road to Robin Hood’s Waterfall: A Yorkshire Dales Adventure

Rose Atkinson • November 15, 2025

A Perfect Dales Drive: Swaledale to Wensleydale (with plenty of stops along the way)

If you’re looking for the ultimate Yorkshire Dales day out, this one’s hard to beat. Start your morning right here in Reeth, heart of Swaledale, and head up dale, through  Healaugh, Low Row, Gunnerside and Muker — one of the prettiest stretches of the Dales you’ll ever see. I promise, this is one of those drives where you’ll be pulling over every few minutes just to take it all in. The dry-stone walls, the wide green pastures, the timeless barns — pure Dales majesty.


After Muker and nearly in Thwaite, turn left. Climb steadily up the Buttertubs Pass, one of the most dramatic roads in the country. The climb twists and turns through sweeping moorland, before opening up to those iconic limestone sinkholes known as the “Buttertubs.” Pull in, park up and explore the extraordinary pot holes, where historically, Swaledale farmers stored their butter and produce to keep it cool on their way to sell it at market in Hawes.


It’s easy to see why Jeremy Clarkson once called this his favourite drive in the UK. He's filmed many segments test driving cars for Top Gear along here, and calls it "Englands only spectacular road".  If you want to see him driving it, see Series 10, episode 6 and Series 16, episode 5. Most famously, Series 22, episode 10 - which is unaired - was filmed around Hawes and the Buttertubs, when the incident occurred which led to Jeremy's dismissal from the show.


The Buttertubs pass is also famous for being part of the 2014 Tour de France Grand Départ — if you stand at the summit, it’s not hard to picture the peloton powering up this steep climb to a wall of cheering crowds. It'll test your brakes on the way down!


Once you drop down the other side into Wensleydale, through Simonstone, you’ve got a choice of adventures. Turn right and head for Hardraw, where you’ll find Hardraw Force, England’s highest single-drop waterfall. You’ll need to park behind the Green Dragon Inn to reach it — a wonderfully atmospheric pub where you can grab lunch before (or after) your walk. Sunday Lunch is highly recommended by us! Pay for entry to walk to the fall via the cafe behind the pub. - Fun fact - the waterfall and cafe is owned by Mr Mark Thompson, who also owned The Kings Arms in Reeth for many years! He has invested heavily over the years since owning the fall and has made it a really lovely walk for all the family to enjoy.


Film lovers might recognise Hardraw Force from Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves — yes, that’s where Kevin Costner famously bathed beneath the falls. and was first spotted by Maid Marion!


Alternatively, if a waterfall walk is not your jam, drive into Hawes. The bustling little market town known for the Wensleydale Creamery. Take a tour, meet the cheesemakers, and sample the cheese that made Wallace & Gromit so happy.


If you prefer something a little more scenic, continue east from Hawes to Aysgarth Falls, another Robin Hood filming location. These tiered waterfalls are beautiful in every season — especially after rain — and just over the road is the Mill Race Tea Room, the perfect stop for a slice of cake or a light lunch in the old mill building.


If you’d like to take the quieter route home, instead of heading to Hawes, from Simonstone turn left and drive back towards Askrigg, once home to my ancestors the Burton family (my great-great-grandparents are laid to rest there, among many other family members). It’s a lovely Dales village steeped in history — you might spot the lime-washed church tower of St. Oswald’s Church, a recent and rather controversial restoration that has become quite the talking point locally. Personally, I love it! It gleams proudly across the Dale and can be seen for miles. Another waterfall walk can be found in Askrigg - steeped in my personal family history as this is where the Burton family started their foray into producing electricity for the dales, before moving to Reeth to do the same. Mill Gill Force is a short walk from the village centre and the old mill buildings and mill race can still be seen. Don’t miss The Bake-Well for a treat or two before heading back.


Round off the loop via Castle Bolton (Bolton Castle is well worth a stop if you love history), then climb over Grinton Moor and drop back into Reeth, where the village green — and perhaps a cosy fire in the Black Bull, Buck or the Kings Arms — await.


It’s one of those drives that really captures what makes the Yorkshire Dales so special: wild landscapes, rich history, and welcoming places to stop along the way. Whether you’re staying with us at Reeth Holiday Cottages or just passing through, this is a route to remember.




Enjoy! Let us know what you think if you visit any of these places!


Rose

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